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Yes, a 1600 stock stall would not be ideal for your 383 (stock stall varies, where a non-stock engine can make it stall a little higher ~ 200-400 RPM). If your cam peaks for torque at 3200 you would want a 3200 stall. You can also base stall by its operating range and have it be 500 RPM higher than the power band of your engine. Example, 1500 - 6500 a 2000 stall may be ideal, but if your power band is narrower 2500-6500 a 3000 stall convertor would be ideal. Hope that helps.




 

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So i put it up on jack stands and ramps I pulled the drive shaft the shift cable the speedo cable and disconnected the battery. I wasn’t able to spin the tailend of the trans in park but I was able to turn the tailend in one direction but not the other direction in each gear R N D 2 1 .. when I say tailend I mean the part where the drive shaft goes in
Well at least you know you did not break the trans output shaft. Sorry you have to tear into your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
So far so good my first time ever pulling a tranny all I have left to do is unbolt the dipstick unbolt the 2 trans lines disconnect the kick down cable from the carb and unbolt 4 bolts holding the tranny to the block and she’s out I’m having issues getting the trans lines to break free from the trans can I cut them with a pipe/ line cutter and just run 2 high pressure rubber hoses to them if I can get them to break free or am I screwed and I have to buy new trans lines thanks again guys for all your knowledge
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I’ll be honest with you guys I had some yahoo mechanic take a yr to get me a rebuilt 383 which I gave him 6000$ he put the torque converter in when he installed the motor I honestly don’t know what stall I have once I get the tranny out I’m gonna try to get a number off the converter and call Hughes to see what I have … I rotated the flywheel by hand with a pry bar I know everyone’s gonna yell at me about it but like I said I’m new to this I hope my fly wheel isn’t messed up now????? I did get all the torque converter bolts out … I’ve got 15,000 into this car it was my papa car who lived in Tennessee he passed in 2016 he’s owned it since 92 ………
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I have 58 days until the telegraph cruise it’s our buggiest cruise other than detroit Woodward cruise I gotta get this tranny out rebuilt and put back in by myself in 2 months wish my luck guys… I want to be the guy who built is caballero not bought it
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Am I gonna have to realign the starter to the flywheel or do I just need to bump the starter until it catches the flywheel moved when I took out the torque converter….??????
 

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You want to be real careful with the flywheel since the 400 crank used to make a 383 is externally balanced - meaning that the harmonic balancer and flywheel are paired together. You can zero balance the harmonic balancer and flywheel and balance internally when building the 383/406 engine but this extra balancing is a more expensive route. If you do not have a flywheel turner, they are really handy and once the convertor bolts are removed from the flywheel the convertor can just slide away from the flywheel towards the trans. The starter should not have to be removed to drop the trans but you should remove the negative battery cable from the battery.

The cooler lines can be a pain, but you want to hold the fitting on the trans and use a flared wrench to break the line loose. You can alternatively use vise grips vs. a flared wrench but be careful not to mess up the fitting. By supporting the trans with the cross member removed, normally gives you a little more access to the cooler lines as well as the engine to trans bolts. Just want to be careful not to get carried away or else your dip stick tube and distributor cap will get damaged (may want to remove the distributor cap or at least set it off to the side). If you can remove the dip stick tube prior to dropping the trans makes it a lot easier and a trans shop may have a plug (or hardware store) you can use so you do not have a big mess with the dip stick tube removed while dropping the transmission. The trans shop may also give you a output shaft plastic plug which helps not be make a mess with the driveshaft removed. Its always good to remove the vacuum line and kick down cable from the engine early in the process so you do not forget. There a lot of helpful videos on YouTube on removing trans that may be helpful. Hope that helps.



 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I might as well pull the dip stick it’s bolted to the top of the trans, the trans lines wouldn’t break free I may have to buy new and definitely want to remove distributor cap , sorry for all the questions but they all help alot
 

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Is my torque converter suppose to spin freely on the trans shaft in both directions
Yes, I believe it should. Once you have the trans out of the car and take the convertor off the trans, you will see a gear inside the convertor that should only turn one way. Refer back to video on how a convertor works sent earlier. Hope that helps.
 

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Does anyone know the foot pounds on the torque converter and the trans bolts for install purposes
Can't say I ever used a torque wrench on the convertor to flywheel or trans to engine bolts, I just had tighten to what I believe is the correct tightness for that type of bolt and use blue Loctite on the convertor to flywheel or trans bolts. Hope that helps.

Torque specs for bolts
 

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I have had this bit of Deja Vue rereading this.
@HKDUP87 had something somewhat similar to his '85 drag El Camino.
Did a good burnout. Lifted the front tires and came down OK. Somewhere between 60 foot and finishing getting into second, things did not want to go.

We thought it was the torque converter or trans.
After pulling both, they seemed OK.
He later learned that it was in the recently modified rear end.
He very recently had hired someone to change his rear gears and provided new longer bolts.
They used the older shorter bolts.
Those bolts sheared between the burnout and about the 100 foot mark.

I see your problem occurred after you changed your rear gears, then got high on RPM in neutral and dropped it into drive.
Might be worth a look. Can you be up on blocks in the rear and manually turn the drive shaft and the wheels do not turn?
Chock front wheels and be safe.
 
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Have you tried to turn the Yoke on the rear end to see if it is still connected to the wheels?
It sounds like you broke an axle (or the ring gear bolts) ; the best you can make a 7.5 is way too weak for a 383 performance engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
All this info helps thanks so much
I have had this bit of Deja Vue rereading this.
@HKDUP87 had something somewhat similar to his '85 drag El Camino.
Did a good burnout. Lifted the front tires and came down OK. Somewhere between 60 foot and finishing getting into second, things did not want to go.

We thought it was the torque converter or trans.=
After pulling both, they seemed OK.
He later learned that it was in the recently modified rear end.
He very recently had hired someone to change his rear gears and provided new longer bolts.
They used the older shorter bolts.
Those bolts sheared between the burnout and about the 100 foot mark.

I see your problem occurred after you changed your rear gears, then got high on RPM in neutral and dropped it into drive.
Might be worth a look. Can you be up on blocks in the rear and manually turn the drive shaft and the wheels do not turn?
Chock front wheels and be safe.
yea thanks for your response I actually did that as soon as I jack the car up I made sure the wheel moved when I spun the driveshaft
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I got 2 bolts left and then I have to undo the 2 trans lines. And it will be out!, So I’m assuming 1or both headers will have to be taking off as well longtube headers… anyone wanna guess what 2 bolts I have left ?? It’s rough
 

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Were you able to pull out the convertor and see if the sprag inside only goes one way? Were you going to take the trans somewhere to have them look it over or were going to take it back to the guy that just rebuilt it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
The trans hasn’t been rebuilt in
Were you able to pull out the convertor and see if the sprag inside only goes one way? Were you going to take the trans somewhere to have them look it over or were going to take it back to the guy that just rebuilt it?
the trans was rebuilt in Tennessee 8/9 yrs ago by someone my grandfather paid I’m taking it to a local performance trans shop he’s gonna build it for 600 help I haven’t check the torque converter for the spring yet how exactly do I check for it
 
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