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Well the first thing to do is purchase a trim clip kit from Original Parts Group (OPG) or Rick's ElCamino store. You will need them because they will break when you try and remove them. They are all different. Once you have new ones you can sort of see how they are in place and how they hold the trim which will give you an idea how to take the trim off. The kits come separate for the window trim, bed trim, two tone paint trim, and rocker panel trim if you have it.
 

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First thing ??

Well the first thing to do is purchase a trim clip kit from Original Parts Group (OPG) or Rick's ElCamino store. You will need them because they will break when you try and remove them. They are all different. Once you have new ones you can sort of see how they are in place and how they hold the trim which will give you an idea how to take the trim off. The kits come separate for the window trim, bed trim, two tone paint trim, and rocker panel trim if you have it.
Really ? :dontknow:
 

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Ok what trim? All of it? There are special tools to remove windshield trim. It's a flat tool with a hook shape that slides under the trim from the glass side. You hook it onto the clips and pull outward and the molding should pop up. You need to do it on all the clips around the glass. Wheel opening moldings have phillips screws along the edge. Side moldings will pop off. Use a flat plastic molding tool to lift the bottom and pop it off upward. Rocker moldings will have a screw at each end and clips along the rest. Use the same plastic tool. Door side moldings will have a screw and/or a nut. One at each edge looking from inside. Then with those removed use the same plastic tool and pop them off.
Belt moldings at the top of the door near the glass require removing the door panels removing the lower window stops and lowering the glass below the molding level. They are held on with phillips screws also. Drip rail moldings just snap on. Use that plastic tool to gently pry them up from the bottom and work your forward to remove it. The drip molding on the "A" pillar requires removing the weatherstrip and the channel that holds it. Bed corners have a phillips screw remove the screw and the corner and long top bed moldings pull straight up. The moldings connected to them around the roof use clips similar to the body side moldings. Pry them off with that plastic tool. Tailgate top molding has a screw on each end then just pry it up. License pocket, remove the cover on the back side of the tailgate and remove the 4 #10mm nuts inside.
Headlight doors have T15 torx screws as does most grilles. If you have lower molding on the header panel below the headlight doors, remove the filler panels to access the #7 or #8mmm bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok what trim? All of it? There are special tools to remove windshield trim. It's a flat tool with a hook shape that slides under the trim from the glass side. You hook it onto the clips and pull outward and the molding should pop up. You need to do it on all the clips around the glass. Wheel opening moldings have phillips screws along the edge. Side moldings will pop off. Use a flat plastic molding tool to lift the bottom and pop it off upward. Rocker moldings will have a screw at each end and clips along the rest. Use the same plastic tool. Door side moldings will have a screw and/or a nut. One at each edge looking from inside. Then with those removed use the same plastic tool and pop them off.
Belt moldings at the top of the door near the glass require removing the door panels removing the lower window stops and lowering the glass below the molding level. They are held on with phillips screws also. Drip rail moldings just snap on. Use that plastic tool to gently pry them up from the bottom and work your forward to remove it. The drip molding on the "A" pillar requires removing the weatherstrip and the channel that holds it. Bed corners have a phillips screw remove the screw and the corner and long top bed moldings pull straight up. The moldings connected to them around the roof use clips similar to the body side moldings. Pry them off with that plastic tool. Tailgate top molding has a screw on each end then just pry it up. License pocket, remove the cover on the back side of the tailgate and remove the 4 #10mm nuts inside.
Headlight doors have T15 torx screws as does most grilles. If you have lower molding on the header panel below the headlight doors, remove the filler panels to access the #7 or #8mmm bolts.
well im just taking off the two tone trim
 

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I cut, pasted, ans saved Bobby's respone on trim removal. Worth saving for my use.

Great post.
 

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I have the plastic coated fiberglass tools for removal, but haven't seen the one pictured above yet. Where can I get one of those at?

Thanks
PFlo :beer:
 

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two-tone Conquista trim removal


I am resurrecting this thread because I also have questions about removing two-tone trim, the strips from front to rear that include the wheel well moldings on two-tone Conquistas.
I scored some replacement pieces, and there were some "T" bolts (that is what the Fisher Body Manual calls them) attached to one of the pieces -- see pic above. It does not appear to me that the molding can be removed from this type of clip by prying. It seems to me that you need to rotote the "T" with a special tool. Can someone please clarify?
The "T" is attached with a nut that is inaccessible. By rotating the "T" and lifting the trim off, the "T" will be saved on the body, ready for the replacement trim piece. Has someone made a tool for getting under the trim and rotating the "T"?
 

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http://www.opgi.com/common/C240764.jpg
I am resurrecting this thread because I also have questions about removing two-tone trim, the strips from front to rear that include the wheel well moldings on two-tone Conquistas.
I scored some replacement pieces, and there were some "T" bolts (that is what the Fisher Body Manual calls them) attached to one of the pieces -- see pic above. It does not appear to me that the molding can be removed from this type of clip by prying. It seems to me that you need to rotote the "T" with a special tool. Can someone please clarify?
The "T" is attached with a nut that is inaccessible. By rotating the "T" and lifting the trim off, the "T" will be saved on the body, ready for the replacement trim piece. Has someone made a tool for getting under the trim and rotating the "T"?
I had to remove the speed nut first then remove the trim.
Hard to see in the pic but the "T" is still on the front fender and a real B*tch to get to with the fender on.

BTW I found replacements at NAPA
 

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Steve, thanks for the encouragement. I think I've got it figured out. Two-tone trim, from front to back:

Front Wheel Molding: As you said, the speed nuts on the back of the "T" bolts ARE accessible, just hard to get to. I didn't actually take this piece off, but there is an access hole in the plastic inner fender to reach the rear ones if necessary, or you could remove a couple of the plastic inner fender bolts for access.

Door molding: I didn't need to take this one off either, but if it has the "T" bolts then they should be accessible by taking the inside finish door panel trim off.

Behind the door molding: This piece slides on plastic clips. Just tap it forward with a piece of hardwood. Very easy.

Rear wheel molding: With the above piece off, this comes right off, just Phillips screws. Very easy, but I had to use a hand-impact driver to avoid buggering the screw heads. This is the piece I am replacing.

Behind the rear wheel molding: I didn't need to take this one off either. It has the same plastic sliding clips as above, but I don't see any way of sliding it. I think this one you might have to pry, or maybe a combination of prying one or two clips, and then sliding it off of the rest.
 

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Maybe I am dumb but I need someone to clarify how the bed corner chrome trim near tailgate is removed on a fifth gen. I removed the screw on each side. Do they pull striaght up? Pry it off? I have new ones to put on the corners as mine current ones are a little pitted but they seem to be on there pretty snug.
RTT Todd:llying:
 

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There is the visible screw that you already removed, and there is a hidden screw on the other leg of the angle. To access it, you pretty much have to remove all of the bed trim, starting with the pieces at the front, above the rear window, and then removing the long side bed trim pieces. All four of those pieces are removed with gentle prying and wiggling using only your hands until they pop off. Be prepared to replace broken plastic trim clips.
Alternatively, lots of people apparently only remove the visible corner trim screw, and then pry until they break the tab that the hidden screw holds. Although not the right way to do it, the long side bed trim covers enough of the corner piece to hold it in place, making a corner piece with a broken off screw tab still usable.
 
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