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Ordered a 3.73 ring and pinion, and a limited slip differential this past week to replace the worn-out original 2.41 rear end. I'm hoping my mechanic has time to get it done this week.
What transmission are you running? A prior owner put 3.73’s in mine and I can’t wait to either swap in an overdrive or knock the rear back down to a more highway-friendly ratio.
 

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Let me try to catch up...

I bought my ‘68 SS two months ago. But shoulder surgery followed closely by hip replacement has really slowed my progress. But in the last two months I’ve:

Replaced the fuel pump and made all new AN-6 lines to the carburetor.

Rebuilt the carburetor.

Replaced horribly-leaking valve cover gaskets and reworked the steel covers to stop the gushers.

Moved from a LWP to the year-correct B.B. SWP and replaced every bracket, pulley, belt, hose, PS pump, reservoir, and alternator to be ‘68-correct.

Replaced the Franken-headers with nice ceramic coated Hedman 2"-primary headers.

Rewired the engine compartment back to original spec’s.

Trashed the crappy aftermarket air cleaner and replaced it with the proper one, incorporating the PCV system.

Replaced spark plugs and plug wires with nice MSD multi-angle-boot 8.5mm.

Added a nice aluminum catch can to the radiator overflow and installed new hoses and fittings to the radiator and heater core.

Took out the Bubba connectors for the transmission cooler lines and now have full hard lines.

Replaced the Ill-fitting battery with a new proper battery and new cables to match.

New coolant, oil, and WIX filter.

Replaced my chewed-up fuel filler neck with a new Tanks neck.

Added a stock washer reservoir and hoses to get the windshield washer system going.

And today I relax...
 

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Today was an easy day considering my last two months with this car. When I put the headers on I had to remove the steering column and intermediate shaft. That gave me the opportunity to line up the steering wheel to the on-center position of the steering box. That put it grossly off center with the horribly aligned front wheels. So today was seat-of-the-pants alignment day. My steering wheel finally points in the proper direction when I drive down the street and the alignment is at least now in a safe zone. My short list included all new suspension & steering components, so no sense in spending money at an alignment shop until I replace it all. For now, I’m happy to have it close.
 

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Well I just took my 69 ElCo in today to get a 700r4 tranny installed and remove the 400. My 69 has new 3.55 gears in the 12 bolt and I needed some highway rpm's. So with the ZZ4 crate motor she has in her my tranny mechanic guy is telling me he is going with a 1,600 to 1,800 rpm torque converter. I can not wait till it is done!
Doo keep us updated please. I’ve got a 3-spd. in my ‘68 BB and have OD on my to-do list. I just can’t decide between 700-R4, 200-4R, or 4L60/80E.
 

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Simplest five-minute job I’ve had on this car which turned into a three-hour adventure. Changed the glove box lock. PO said he’d lost the key, but luckily it was in the un-locked position.

SUPPOSEDLY the key has to be in the lock cylinder to remove it. Luckily I’ve had plenty of "life experience" so picking locks isn’t a big deal. Once I got the cylinder out I discovered that the locking mechanisms are attached to the door with an (about) 1/2" 8-point internal nut. Think Allen-head, but 8-point instead of 6-point. Luckily I was able to apply enough torque with a large set of external-snap-ring pliers to set the new nut. Just for giggles I searched online for the proper tool. No way. I probably just didn’t know what to call it. But I did know I wasn’t inclined to devote any more time looking for it.

So... new lock in and working properly. Then bolt the door back to the dashboard and done, right?. One of the three 10-24 bolts was already snapped off. I managed to snap another. Turns out the studs are spot welded to the hinge. So careful drilling and hammering for another hour or so and the broken studs were out.

Now after about three hours the glove box door is back on and I finally have a keyed lock for it.

The silly part is that I’ll very likely never lock it. But the nutty part of me just needs to know everything works.
 

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Well ... when I bought the Elco the guy put a brand new Eaton Trutrac and 3.55 gears in the 12 bolt rearend. But then he put low profile 245/40r18 25.5" tires in the rear. So with the Turbo 400 this thing was taching high rpm on the freeway. Here in So Cal everyone cruises on the freeway at 70 + MPH. And I was sucking the gas at 55 MPH!
So....time for a 700r4 tranny swap. Did that 2 weeks ago and then that weekend the wife and I went to a friends house for a BBQ and I still wasn't happy with where the rpm's were at. So after lots of calculating and crunching number's yesterday I went and bought Nitto 255/55r18 rear tires that are 29" tall. Eureka!!!!! The perfect combo. It is perfect with the transmission/ gears and runs great at 70 mph. It effectively makes the gears like they are 3.33's give or take.
Plus the bonus is it fills up the rear wheel well and looks bad azz to me! Kinda a throw back to the 70's look! I am a very happy Elco man!!!

I’m hoping for the same outcome. I have 3.73 gears and a 1:1 3-Spd Auto. The car came with 28” tires and I just swapped to 30” tires. I spent a day getting the tires to clear the inner fenders then headed out of town for ten days. I can’t wait to get home next weekend and get it up to speed to discover my new cruise RPM. Your results give me hope.
 

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I found that squeek that's been bugging me forever!!!

One of those door panel pins broke. I got sick of dealing with them and screwed both door panels in with those interior chrome screws. I put them on the ends and made them look factory. Riding in my car now is so quiet..
THAT is seriously a huge deal. There’s nothing that agitates me more than squeaks and rattles. Good job!
 

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Greatly appreciate the feedback, Old Bear. I was gonna go with the phenolic spacer until I saw that Edelbrock recommended the 9266 gasket for heat soak in their carb literature. I'll probably go to the spacer once I resolve the fuel leak. Wasn't sure which type of spacer I needed with the square-bore carb and the Performer intake. Read several articles about the advantages of the different types and my head started hurting. I think I probably need the square-bore spacer, though. Definitely open to suggestions, though.

As for the glass filter...sounds like that's not a great choice. Sounds like I should swap that as well. When I bought the car, it didn't have a filter at all and I went with the glass...lesson learned.

Where's the best place for the new filter? It's presently just above the fuel pump, about water pump level. Edelbrock places it on top of the intake in their video...that seems like a hot spot to me, though. I'd appreciate any advice - thanks!
Anywhere between the pump & carb. I’m running mine on top, but I’ve plumbed other cars and had it down closer to the pump. The extra angles on my lines are to clear the heater hose port.
 

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Just took my Elco to "Lee and Son" in Fullerton Ca tonight to complete my Wilwood brake conversion.:banana: I am doing the rear disc brakes to Wilwwood with a much better E Brake system than those cheap Chinese disc brake kits!

https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdRear?itemno=140-7141-DR
What wheels are you running? I was hoping for that same system, but all of my measurements tell me my 15” Weld wheels will only clear their 11” setup. And those, just barely.
 

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Hey Tom......I'm running 17's in front/18's in back. Go to the link I posted, in RED LETTERS it says on Wilwoods website they do fit some 15" wheels and has diagram you can use to make sure they will fit.
Yeah... I used their measurements a few weeks ago and confirmed that they would not fit inside my 15" wheels. Now my big decision, among many, is to decide if I want to swap wheels to fit the bigger brakes or just hang with the 11" offerings.
 

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Installed a BMR Suspension driveshaft safety loop. Twice.

It was made to direct-fit my ‘68 and it came without instructions. It also came with 1” long self-tapping screws, which I was absolutely not going to use. My simple mind told me that since it came with self-tapping screws, it certainly was designed to be mounted to the under-floor support member near the front of the driveshaft. So after drilling 5/16” holes and thru-bolting it to the floor, it looked REALLY low. I put the driveshaft back in and it was just barely clearing the top of the loop. I went ahead and drove the car and, sure enough, the driveshaft hit the top of the loop when I’d hit a bump. So back to the drawing board....

Closer inspection showed that moving it to the space just forward of that floor support had it tucked in nicely. It even fit up into a recess in the hump, “like it was made for that spot.” D’Oh!

So a second drilling process and it fits great.

Now whenever my Vortec Pro engine shows up I’ll feel a little safer until I can replace my 1310 U-Joints with new yokes & a shaft that’ll take some 1350 joints.
 

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Replaced my drivers door window regulator, vent window regulator, and interior door handle mechanism. Both the door handle and window regulator posts flopped around quite a bit from 50 years of use. Both also had the knurling chewed up pretty badly like someone had replaced the handles with vise grips at some point. My vent window regulator was worn enough that the vent window couldn’t be closed completely so my choices while driving were to have it open an inch or listen to it whistle.
 

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Today I further defiled my ‘68 SS by replacing my floppy round outside mirrors with a pair of rectangular mirrors from Morris Classic Concepts. I went ahead and popped for the convex passenger mirror and the blue-tinted anti reflective coating. I must say that it’s nice to finally be able to adjust the passenger side mirror so that it’s more than just an ornament on the car.

On a side note, I decided to drill out my screw holes and install 8-32 rivet nuts in the door skins so the mirrors would be more securely retained than the old ones were with regular sheet metal screws. When drilling the drivers side I discovered the holes and backing plate for an original remote control mirror. Had I discovered that before buying these mirrors I might have opted to go back to a drivers side remote mirror. Oh well. I plan on tinkering with this car for many more years, so perhaps a return to the remote mirror may be in my future.

PS: now with these pictures you all know I haven’t been exaggerating about this grossly ill-prepared paint job. I’ve had oranges with less orange peel texture.
 

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Well.....I took my 69 ElCo in to the auto painter today with a brand new OPGI cowl induction hood to match to my metallic brown paint job!!!! Really hope they match it well. It's going to give it a much hotter look hopefully!Pictures hopefully by this weekend.
Back in the 70’s I loved brown cars. You hardly ever see any these days. Looking forward to pictures.
 
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