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actually got to drive the car for the first time since I've owned it. wheeee, I got some work ahead of me!

first thing was the coolant flush as I suspected it wouldn't make it 13 miles to my friends property: so I drive it 2.5 miles to the shop where they commence to get the green stuff trickling out. not good enough, so he's getting in there with the screwdriver and it finally comes gushing out green, then shortly thereafter turns brown. (he did say he smelt rust after opening the radiator cap). and the temp sensor/gauge is definitely not working.

then the drive to the friends property with him following and observing (just in case); definitely no faster than 50mph. on the way over I discovered that the steering is really vague, the seats have no support above the shoulder blades for a tall person like me, the seatbelt doesn't latch, and the carburetor was fine for the most part except for a couple of "almost die sputtering" at lights.

so far on the replacement list is temp sensor, radiator, seatbelt, seats, carb. plus it will need a really good block cleaning to make sure the coolant passages are clear.

things I will definitely be pulling and selling are the trim and 60/40 seats, and the front clip and doors after completing the front clip swap
And the adventure begins.


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I finally got the transmission back in mine. The shop resurfaced the flywheel and the Elky now has a vibration at idle and above 2k rpm. Will try to get it back in shop Tuesday. Transmission shifts smooth.


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@Rj143 You’re Elky must be a hoot to drive...how do you keep the rear tires from breaking loose w/420 hp?
Hotchkis multi link rear suspension and Yukon dura grip 3.73 limited slip rear end. Once the tires are warm it hooks easy. With an open diff it was shredding a tire every other month.


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let's just hope that it's as fun as Thomas the Tank Engine!

I used to read this books to my son. He is 22 now.


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actually got to drive the car for the first time since I've owned it. wheeee, I got some work ahead of me!

first thing was the coolant flush as I suspected it wouldn't make it 13 miles to my friends property: so I drive it 2.5 miles to the shop where they commence to get the green stuff trickling out. not good enough, so he's getting in there with the screwdriver and it finally comes gushing out green, then shortly thereafter turns brown. (he did say he smelt rust after opening the radiator cap). and the temp sensor/gauge is definitely not working.

then the drive to the friends property with him following and observing (just in case); definitely no faster than 50mph. on the way over I discovered that the steering is really vague, the seats have no support above the shoulder blades for a tall person like me, the seatbelt doesn't latch, and the carburetor was fine for the most part except for a couple of "almost die sputtering" at lights.

so far on the replacement list is temp sensor, radiator, seatbelt, seats, carb. plus it will need a really good block cleaning to make sure the coolant passages are clear.

things I will definitely be pulling and selling are the trim and 60/40 seats, and the front clip and doors after completing the front clip swap
What year is it for the trim?
How much trim you deleting?
What type of front clip are you adding?
 

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On Saturday, I went to the wrecking yard and found some electric mirror motors that I was hoping would work in a pair of Monte Carlo sport mirrors that I picked up a couple of months ago. On another forum that I read/post on, a thread describes a power mirror upgrade using sport mirror frames and electric motors. I found this morning that the motors that I got, have the incorrect spread for the mounting holes.
In other upgrade ambitions, I also got a pair of some very good condition bucket seats from a '97 Cutlass.
20200523_171030.jpg


When the weather permits (it's raining today), I will check the bracket flanges to see if I will need to find/make adapters to fit the Caballero.
 

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I took my 78 down town and put gas in it. The speedometer didn't work. I'll have to take it apart, and see what's up with it. I was hoping to test the cruise control,but that'll have to wait until I solve this problem.
 

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What year is it for the trim?
................................. 1986 Conquista

How much trim you deleting?
................................. All of it

What type of front clip are you adding?
................................. 1984 Olds Cutlass Supreme
this is the goal!

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After replacing my factory .308 posi with a new Yukon and 3.55 gears last Sat, I finally got around to re-programming the Dakota Digital speedo today and giving it a few test runs! Having fun! Hope all of you are too!

Joe
 

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I spray painted the tailgate with John Deere Blitz Black paint. My friends pushed it back in their shop with a four wheeler, and scuffed the paint up. When I tried repainting it last fall it came out flat, instead of satin color.
It wouldn't show up in the pictures, so I couldn't share a picture.
 

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Went to the wrecking yard today, even though it was alternating between showers and full-on rain. Found a driver side power mirror from a 3rd gen fbody. They are the same mirror frames that Monte Carlos have. The mirror motor will supposedly mount up the same as the cable remote type. I am still on the lookout for a motor for the passenger side power mirror. The LaSabre and Cadillac mirror motors that I got last week will not work, they mount differently in the Monte Carlo frames.
I also found an A/C air box out of a '78 Cutlass, with a large portion of the vent ducting, and I also grabbed a bunch of the dashboard wiring harness as well. I know that the A/C air boxes take a lot of space in the engine bay, but I want to convert it to a "factory" air conditioned car, so I will now begin looking for a nice dashboard.
20200530_180047.jpg


20200530_180130.jpg
 

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i got my interior all cleaned up today. i always forget how much crap can fit behind the seat till i drag it all out to organize. also mounted a speaker under the dash on passenger side. was hoping to put one on the drivers side also but no real space to put it. thinking about mounting it behind the drivers seat instead. we will see.
 

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Started prepping and dying interior trim and door panels. Drilling out anchor holes on resto seatbelts because the 'direct bolt-in' seatbelts from Eckler's is not DBI.

Working on replacing original carpet and seat upholstery, got the seat out but can't figure out how to remove the seatback from an 80' 50/50 bench. I removed one bolt from each side and the seatbacks now lay flat. Do I remove the reclining units first and then slide the seatbacks out? Thanks for any help in advance ;)

130153
130154
 

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Started prepping and dying interior trim and door panels. Drilling out anchor holes on resto seatbelts because the 'direct bolt-in' seatbelts from Eckler's is not DBI.

Working on replacing original carpet and seat upholstery, got the seat out but can't figure out how to remove the seatback from an 80' 50/50 bench. I removed one bolt from each side and the seatbacks now lay flat. Do I remove the reclining units first and then slide the seatbacks out? Thanks for any help in advance ;)

View attachment 130153 View attachment 130154
How do you disassemble a bench seat?? | El Camino Central ...
www.elcaminocentral.com › ... › Interior Restoration




Aug 18, 2015 - Remove the circlip, remove seat back arm from post, and pull out and ... On the G-body, one side of the seat'spivot is has a bolt head that you ...
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Aug 27, 2016
More results from www.elcaminocentral.com
 

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Thanks for the links! I've been looking over the site using search and have an '80 GM Fischer Body Service Manual but the second seatback bolt was just hidden by upholstery, once removed it was pretty easy to remove them and get the old skins off.

Installed an ABS headliner and some speakers using a couple of spacers as well...

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Interesting that the last one to post before me was also working on the seats. Last night after returning from the wrecking yard and putting away the mirrors that I got, I began my bucket seat install. I pulled the passenger side (50-50 bench) out and vacuumed the passenger side floor.
20200606_191046.jpg


Next, I cut some standoffs for the rear seat mounts. By that time, it was time to go indoors for the evening.
This morning, I dug the new seats out of the garage, and began taking measurements. The new seats came from a '97 Cutlass. I only had to drill a new hole in the forward end of the seat tracks, then fastened down the rear standoffs, I had also drilled new holes in the rear end of the seat tracks, but after cutting, drilling, and shaping some 3" flat stock, I realized that I could use the original rear mount holes and mounting bolts from the Cutlass.
20200607_143554.jpg


It was not a quick install, though not difficult either. It was a lot of put in, take out, fabricate, put in, take out, fabricate some more, etc., etc.
I likely spent about 2 hrs yesterday evening, and another 2-1/2 hrs today, not counting stopping for lunch, and taking a hardware store jaunt.
This is the finished product.
20200607_145937.jpg


I took my wife for a ride this evening, and she approves. I am hoping to get the driver side done next weekend. The driver side is also powered, so I will have to run wiring for that one.
 

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Looking good! I'm thinking about adding a 2" thick piece of high-density foam across the top of the bench seat but the car has relatively low miles. Other than a rear wire that detached from the foam, they're ready for reskinning.

Too windy to paint interior parts so today I'm throwing in the new carpet and making holes for the seat belt and seat mounting bolts.
 
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