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changed out the key fob batteries in my main remote. seems like it is working a bit better but still a bit finicky. my spare remote still works perfectly 3+ year old batteries in it so have a feeling i may just have to replace my main remote eventually.
 

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I got my choke cable today from e-Bay. $10! 9' long, stainless.. Thats a good deal. I am so tired of having my quadrajets choke stay rich too long and stink up the garage. This way I start it, push it wide open and let it warm up...
 

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Did my driver side bucket seat install today. Last weekend I did the passenger side seat install.
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I started on the driver side last night after dinner. I removed the old 50/50 driver side bench, vacuumed, and created my rear standoffs. Packed everything away when the mosquitoes came out.
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Got on it early this morning, I had the tent set up by 700am to keep the rain off.
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Using 10 gauge wire, I tucked it under the carpet, and ran it up the channel to a junction block that I installed behind the kickpanel.
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Then I ran more 10 gauge through the firewall and tucked into the wiring loom, and around toward the battery.
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I made the connection at a junction block that I had originally installed for the ammeter.
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I am happy with the end result.
These seats came from a '97 Cutlass, and bolted in with some minor fabrication.
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i got the rear brakes adjusted. they really were not that badly out of adjustment but i could feel they needed to be adjusted because of how the car felt while stopping.
 

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I bought a new battery charger and put it on the battery of the 78 . The old charger read out that the battery was charged, but the car won't turn over at all. I'll have to see in the morning if it's working.
 

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I was checking the speedometer cable and found a place that I didn't get together enough. I also seen transmission fluid on the pan bolts of the transmission. I started it, but didn't see where it is leaking from. Another mystery for me to solve. I hope to test drive it soon, to see if speedometer is working.
 

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changed out the brake fluid in the reservoir since it was looking a bit funny. new stuff went slightly funny looking. i am guessing from the residual fluid or maybe the light rust. i would love to flush the system but have a feeling i would require new calipers and wheel cylinders to do that. still feel a bit better about having fresh fluid in there. also still fighting with my door key fob. my spare one works perfectly but the other one is hit and miss whether it works properly or not even with new batteries.
 

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Good idea Rich,
I had a set of those ramps, and the last time I drove my wife’s Honda civic up on them, they shot out from under the tires, and the car crashed to the floor and dented both rocker panels - and destroyed the ramps! I ended up jacking the car up to get the broken pieces out. That is how a 10 minute oil change turns into an hour long fiasco. I’ll have to try that with my steel ramps since they slide also, and my El Camino is much heavier.
 

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Okay, so I didn’t actually do all this today, but this is the most recent work I’ve done to Elsie. Since I had some time available and the funds to do it, I installed the basic UMI parts (springs, sway bars, front and rear chassis braces) along with polyurethane isolators to improve Elsie’s handling. While I was at it I also installed a set of Air-Lift bags for when I want to pull a small luggage trailer.

I learned a few new lessons while doing this job. As I don’t have a big compressor to run air tools, I had to compress the springs manually with my biggest 1/2” ratchet. That experience taught me that when I am ready and able to get the UMI control arms and other steering parts later, it will be worth the long drive to Philipsburg and the extra expense to have UMI techs do the installation.

The other thing I learned was to never, ever drop a compressed 600 lb/in coil spring on a concrete floor. I had it positioned in the lower A-arm, and then as I reached for a tool or a bolt, the A-arm shifted and the spring fell to the concrete under the car. The compressor unwound with awesome fury, scraping off a good bit of the spring’s heavy-duty coating and making a lot of little chips in the carport.

The third lesson I learned is that UMI’s shock tower brace will not fit with the factory muffler brackets in place. I had not planned to do any exhaust work on the car yet, that’s the next big job, but I had to modify the existing system in order to install the brace. I wound up cutting off the factory pipe in front of the rear axle and using a couple 45 degree elbows to route it out the driver’s side. There’s currently no muffler as I couldn’t see buying just to throw it away in a few weeks.

When I cut the tail pipe from the original muffler, I found what I believe are chunks of the original catalytic converter.

Here are some photos:












 

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Good idea Rich,
I had a set of those ramps, and the last time I drove my wife’s Honda civic up on them, they shot out from under the tires, and the car crashed to the floor and dented both rocker panels - and destroyed the ramps! I ended up jacking the car up to get the broken pieces out. That is how a 10 minute oil change turns into an hour long fiasco. I’ll have to try that with my steel ramps since they slide also, and my El Camino is much heavier.
i know these are a tiny bit on the expensive side but i like the idea of them. if shipping costs where not so high i would consider buying some. i have considered trying to make some but i don't even know if i could make them this cheap or not.
 

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Yesterday actually, I had to pull the driver door panel off to reconnect a loose wire to the window. I also decided that since I was doing "lite" maintenance, that I would adjust the door hinges so that the door would better align with the fender and the rear stricker. I first aligned the bottom hinge, and then tried the upper hinge to find that the inner most bolt was slightly rounded. I had a pair of upper hinges for both right and left, so I decided to change the left upper. To get the partially stripped bolt without making it worse, I removed the door completely and used a 6 point socket. When reassembling, I placed the partially stripped bolt in a position that I could use a socket if I ever needed to remove it again.
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The door is lined up better than before, and closes better and easier also.
 

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Running Evapo-rust Thermocure thru the engine block for the next couple of days, then going to drain it.

Temp gauge hasn't been working so I swapped the temp sensor...still not working so probably means I need to pull the gauge cluster. That's ok, the oil pressure gauge doesn't move smoothly, jerks from 30 up to 50, so gauges need to be gone over.

Does anyone know if you can (or should) pull the gauge cluster and still fire it up and let it idle?
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Pulled the gauge cluster today. Some good, some bad.

Things to fix or replace:
-overheated light switch causing partially melted connector block
-broken brackets on light switch bracket
-broken hold down slot for light switch bracket
-dried up gasket around air vent and warning lights
-screw bosses, this plastic is visibly cracking after 34 years, even though only 84k miles

The good:
-computer circuit on back looks good
-clear plastic shield is immaculate
-gauges are clean

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