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1987 GMC Caballero, 400 HP 350, Holley Sniper EFI, 200-4R
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Changed out the dash lights (& HVAC controller) to LEDs. The sockets, foil runs corrosion made this a challenge but the white light of the LEDs look awesome
 

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Added a Valentine One radar detector. Upgraded the DD gear selector to GSS 3000. Changed the display settings on the DD gauges and still trying to get the PCS display to stop cutting in and out. Frustrating.
 
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Like this?
 

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I re-curved Elsie’s HEI this afternoon with an MSD #8428 Weight and Spring Kit. Set it up with the medium spring to start the Centrifugal advance at 1000 rpm with 8 degrees. Unfortunately, the skies opened up with a deluge so I haven’t had a chance to road test yet. I might need to back the initial timing down from 12 degrees to 10 or 8 if I hear any pinging or knocking under acceleration. Keeping ahold of those minuscule E-Clips is no easy feat. I did have to chase one down. Luckily, it dropped safely between the engine and radiator shroud to the driveway.
 

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I re-curved Elsie’s HEI this afternoon with an MSD #8428 Weight and Spring Kit. Set it up with the medium spring to start the Centrifugal advance at 1000 rpm with 8 degrees. Unfortunately, the skies opened up with a deluge so I haven’t had a chance to road test yet. I might need to back the initial timing down from 12 degrees to 10 or 8 if I hear any pinging or knocking under acceleration. Keeping ahold of those minuscule E-Clips is no easy feat. I did have to chase one down. Luckily, it dropped safely between the engine and radiator shroud to the driveway.
I would take the vacuum advance off the table, screw the plate down so it stays put and give you a better ground and then run the initial around 20-22.. Try it, you can always change it back. Make sure you lower the idle to 600 rpm if it goes up on you..
 

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I finally repaired the PCS controller so it does not cut in and out of power and I can paddle shift whenever I need to now, without the annoying power cyle.


I also started on the alternator New System wiring. I hope to get a little more system power.

Last, got the spare tire painted and mounted. This will fit all four wheel locations now.

138972



138973




138974
 

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I would take the vacuum advance off the table, screw the plate down so it stays put and give you a better ground and then run the initial around 20-22.. Try it, you can always change it back. Make sure you lower the idle to 600 rpm if it goes up on you..
On a performance SBC, I’d agree with you. Your recommendation is in line with what I learned back in the day from the writings of Da Grump and Smokey Yunick when it comes to SBC race engine spark advance. Unfortunately, mine is a slowly funded build, so Elsie is still running a bone-stock, Jasper rebuilt 305.

My goal with the re-curve was to improve its sluggishness when accelerating on the streets. Elsie still has a stock open rear, albeit with the optional “performance” 2.73 ratio – her glove box decal shows both GU2 (2.73) and G92 (“Performance Ratio”) codes. The stock 305 engine will remain in place until I can finish building the suspension (about halfway there) and get some better brakes (still a ways off.)

So, the re-curve kit seemed like an inexpensive way to make an improvement and it worked. I took Elsie out for run this afternoon and felt a nice improvement. I might try swapping in one or both of the lightest springs later on just to see what happens. But I’m content for now.
 

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Another Elky day. Today I finished up the wiring for the New System alternator wiring. I am showing a consistent 13.8v with about 12.5v at idle. I also ripped out the old splice and regulator wiring. I installed some junction blocks for ground wires in the front on each side and I retained the stock horn relay. It only has three wires attached to it now, so it is a nice place for power. Everything is a lot cleaner looking now.

I also ripped the tranny apart today. It has not been shifting correctly and reverse is weird. Sometimes it revs real high and gets stuck in first or second and wont shift up. The third time is a charm. I can now disasemble valve body, clean all parts and reassemble in about 3 hours. The front servo fell out before I had a good chance to look at it, but I think I installed it backwards. I went for a quick ride tonight and the reverse is much better. I am shifting better into thrid gear, but still acting a little funny. I will go for a longer test drive tomorrow.
 
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Using my Tech 2 clone device that can view and parameter stream perhaps a hundred or more different OBD 2 engine and transmission values, I have saved a snapshot of what all of these values appear as on a healthy running LS engine.

I saved it as an HTML document so that if this engine ever starts running badly, I will have a saved set of normal values to compare against.

Another Rick
 

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1987 GMC Caballero, 400 HP 350, Holley Sniper EFI, 200-4R
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Tested both horns, that were not hooked up when I got my Caballero. Both tested good! I cleaned them up, cleaned up the wire wye and put a quick coat of paint on the horns before reinstalling. They work!
Figured out the rear disc brake kit I bought had the solution to my parking brake dilemma. As I attempted to remove the original cable the tab on the connector snapped off...
So I attempted to test my wiper motor. I'm going to replace it.
 

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Added another spacer to the steering wheel for better knuckle clearance from the paddle shifters.

I also pulled the governor one more time and changed the eights. The transmission is running much better now. It is shifting as expected and no more drops to second gear around 40 mph.
 

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Hello All Finished putting in projector headlights with both hi & low beams on the outside space
put black plex on the inside space. And relocated my plate with a 1985 Camaro plate holder which will
fold up under the rear. Just found someone to fix my little dent and cover up plate opening.
Wanted to do something different. Russ
 

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