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Could be something in the alternator regulator. I am keeping an eye on mine. Has a sticker on it that’s says reman 1987.
Tom
Thank you. I might be a problem. This alternator came off a 79 Malibu that was given to me. I'll have to check it out. It hasn't been a problem, but maybe something is changing.
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, stock 305/200R4/QJ
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544 Posts
Pulled an intermediate shaft from a 95 jeep Grand Cherokee during the week, on a short work day, tore out the old one with the shredded rag joint in my 87, and sat an cussed out the imaginary salvage yard guy since the new shaft was undoubtedly from a 96 or 97, not a 95. So now waiting on ebay for a delivery of an 84-94 Cherokee XJ shaft instead. Biggest issue around here is the entire steering column is generally pulled, starting at the pump, so those shafts have gotten extremely rare now.
 

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Deputy Regional Director, Region 13
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@cyberray That's a different place for the Continental Kit.
hadn't thought of it like that!

spare tire in case of a flat after sitting 9 months in storage. unexpectedly, all the old tires held air. it was "fun" getting it into the garage. we used vehicle dollies to pivot it around the corner and past the storage unit. half my battle is done.
 

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I thought it was a Grant GT steering wheel. It needs white leather Wheelskins on the outer edge.

Nice different wheels.
 

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I started up the 78 Elk again today. It ran great. No volt meter issues. Hope to get it on the road tomorrow.
 

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1979 Royal Knight Elcamino SS
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21 Posts
I finally finished assembling my Ford 9" build I have been tinkering with for a few weeks now. Bought a new housing for a gbody, then picked up a used center section with a 3.25:1 open differential. Swapped out that open carrier for a Yukon gear posi. And finished assembling it last night. Might put it in this weekend if I get a chance.
Motor vehicle Product Automotive tire Automotive design Auto part
Wheel Automotive tire Locking hubs Vehicle brake Motor vehicle
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Rim Gas
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, stock 305/200R4/QJ
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Picked up a 88-94 Cherokee intermediate shaft brand new for $60. Thought I was getting a deal, but turns out it wasn't collapsable. The hollow shaft was double stamped on both sides. Broke out the drill bits, buh bye stamps. Pulled the rubber moisture tip and plastic sleeve from the old disintegrated rag joint, slid those on and bolted it in. And promptly flooded the carb trying to start it to turn the wheel to get a better angle on the top bolt. 😂
 

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Mine was stamped pretty hard also. Put it in a vice and it came apart with a dead blow. Cut some off the inside piece to make it collapse more and measured it to just fit on the splines. Used a flare wrench below the top u joint and dead blowed it on the d shaft. It’s been fine for 3 months and 500 miles. I did have to move the steering wheel 2 splines to center it.
Tom
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, stock 305/200R4/QJ
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544 Posts
Huh. My stamps looked like they were done with a punch. After drilling I had to use a hammer on the fat end to beat it out. Then triangle file the inside of the hollow tube to flatten the punch holes out. Little bit of lube and slid right in easy with no slop. The double-d slid right on after makin a notch for the screw, but the spline end is keyed with a flat spot. It's like night and day difference now. Next is springs and shocks, not looking forward to that, done it before but the compressor slipped and the only thing that checked that spring was the tie strap I'd thrown on it. Call me gun-shy lol.
 

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1970 Chevy El Camino Restomod
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325 Posts
I added shims to the motor mounts. Raised the motor 5/8" to clear the steering linkage which was punching into the oil pan. I only took this on because the shop canceled my appointment because they had too many other jobs. So, I thought I woudl give it a try. What a pita. I spent 3 days, about 15 hours trying many different ways to move the motor to get the mounts to line up properly. Finally got it done. The trick was to remove the mounts from the lower mount with single bolt, then bolt the mounts to the motor and then lower it back into position. I was able to get the passenger side to line up, but I had to use a C clamp to move the motor down on the driver side to get that bolt into place.

This was one of those jobs that I yelled WTF am I doing about hour #3. In the end I was hoot n and hollering and fist pumping the air. Am I the only one that does this after conquering a job I never should have started?!

This is why I take the car to the shop for heavy stuff. I was just fighting with the motor weight from under the car on jack stands. The shop was charging about $300 to do this work and if I were to do it again, I will be happy to pay the shop to do it!


Driver side steering linkage had a zirc fitting that broke off after punching the pan so many times.
Automotive tire Liquid Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle



Passenger side was not as bad. I removed the zirc fitting from this side and put in a cap fitting.
Automotive tire Hood Tire Light Automotive lighting




The final stage in getting the motor aligned was place a 6" C clamp into position. This fit perfectly. After cranking a few times I was making a difference.
Automotive tire Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Bicycle part





About another 8 turns and I was able to tap the bolt into position and lock everything down. Fist pumps galore on this job. Dang that was hard!
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Rim Automotive exterior
 
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I added shims to the motor mounts. Raised the motor 5/8" to clear the steering linkage which was punching into the oil pan. I only took this on because the shop canceled my appointment because they had too many other jobs. So, I thought I woudl give it a try. What a pita. I spent 3 days, about 15 hours trying many different ways to move the motor to get the mounts to line up properly. Finally got it done. The trick was to remove the mounts from the lower mount with single bolt, then bolt the mounts to the motor and then lower it back into position. I was able to get the passenger side to line up, but I had to use a C clamp to move the motor down on the driver side to get that bolt into place.

This was one of those jobs that I yelled WTF am I doing about hour #3. In the end I was hoot n and hollering and fist pumping the air. Am I the only one that does this after conquering a job I never should have started?!

This is why I take the car to the shop for heavy stuff. I was just fighting with the motor weight from under the car on jack stands. The shop was charging about $300 to do this work and if I were to do it again, I will be happy to pay the shop to do it!


Driver side steering linkage had a zirc fitting that broke off after punching the pan so many times.
View attachment 141622


Passenger side was not as bad. I removed the zirc fitting from this side and put in a cap fitting.
View attachment 141623



The final stage in getting the motor aligned was place a 6" C clamp into position. This fit perfectly. After cranking a few times I was making a difference.
View attachment 141624




About another 8 turns and I was able to tap the bolt into position and lock everything down. Fist pumps galore on this job. Dang that was hard!
View attachment 141625
I'm surprised you got the bolts thru at all.
The holes were spread 7/8" apart when shimmed.


Handwriting Rectangle Font Slope Diagram
 

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I added shims to the motor mounts. Raised the motor 5/8" to clear the steering linkage which was punching into the oil pan. I only took this on because the shop canceled my appointment because they had too many other jobs. So, I thought I woudl give it a try. What a pita. I spent 3 days, about 15 hours trying many different ways to move the motor to get the mounts to line up properly. Finally got it done. The trick was to remove the mounts from the lower mount with single bolt, then bolt the mounts to the motor and then lower it back into position. I was able to get the passenger side to line up, but I had to use a C clamp to move the motor down on the driver side to get that bolt into place.

This was one of those jobs that I yelled WTF am I doing about hour #3. In the end I was hoot n and hollering and fist pumping the air. Am I the only one that does this after conquering a job I never should have started?!

This is why I take the car to the shop for heavy stuff. I was just fighting with the motor weight from under the car on jack stands. The shop was charging about $300 to do this work and if I were to do it again, I will be happy to pay the shop to do it!


Driver side steering linkage had a zirc fitting that broke off after punching the pan so many times.
View attachment 141622


Passenger side was not as bad. I removed the zirc fitting from this side and put in a cap fitting.
View attachment 141623



The final stage in getting the motor aligned was place a 6" C clamp into position. This fit perfectly. After cranking a few times I was making a difference.
View attachment 141624




About another 8 turns and I was able to tap the bolt into position and lock everything down. Fist pumps galore on this job. Dang that was hard!
View attachment 141625
Well, its finished now, but you could have used leverage to your advantage if you would have wrapped a ratchet strap around the tailshaft of the trans and pulled to the side.
 

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On Saturday, I swapped a new battery into the Caballero, and put the older one into my Pinto project.
The older battery is only about 4 or 5 months old, but I had messed up the positive side post connection a few weeks ago when I removed/replaced the fan shroud when I swapped in a new power steering pump. I always buy batteries with both side and top posts, so I am able to use the old battery in the top post position for the Pinto.
 

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87 Caballero Amarillo, stock 305/200R4/QJ
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544 Posts
On Saturday, I swapped a new battery into the Caballero, and put the older one into my Pinto project.
The older battery is only about 4 or 5 months old, but I had messed up the positive side post connection a few weeks ago when I removed/replaced the fan shroud when I swapped in a new power steering pump. I always buy batteries with both side and top posts, so I am able to use the old battery in the top post position for the Pinto.
Top post batteries are just Sooo much easier to get clamps on when jumpstarting. There's an added bonus to dual mounts, it's also far easier to deal with audio equipment, side terminal only batteries are a painas you also need special ring plates and longer screws or add fused distribution blocks etc to handle both the large guage starter and large guage audio wires.
 
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