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watched Mother Nature pressure wash it..
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That is what mine has been getting. Does a good job,,,,,,, 😁
 
As i was tidying up my U/H fuse box wires (LT1) after re- wiring for the A/C and dual fans. i was thinking about also putting my in-tank fuel pump relay back into the F.B. (have it beside the F.B. and running it into an external 15 amp fuse). I thought, why not hook it back up like the OEM setup was and connect it to the fuse box's 10 amp fuse. well, its been a while since i hooked it up that way and now i remember why. the OEM 10 amp still goes to the PCM and once removed the engine cuts out(safety feature). took me about 5 min. to figure it out. I'm sure theres a way to integrate it... but i guess i'll just leave it be for now.
 
New universal joints... didn't solve drive train popping sound. New ring gear & pinion arrive tomorrow. Eaton posi unit & Richmond installation kit on standby in the garage already.
What I do to my truck on Thursday will probably make it 10% funner
 
Since the water pump was fitted, I've noticed the car has been hard to start. This coincided with a heatwave so figured it was a fuel evaporation issue.

However, today I noticed a large diameter vacuum pipe disconnected, and some kinked small diameter lines. I guess the shop overlooked some things... Great
 
Since the water pump was fitted, I've noticed the car has been hard to start. This coincided with a heatwave so figured it was a fuel evaporation issue.

However, today I noticed a large diameter vacuum pipe disconnected, and some kinked small diameter lines. I guess the shop overlooked some things... Great
Got under the hood for a proper look today. Followed the vacuum schematic and it appears that, while routing was a little janky and creating some kinks, that all lines were connected appropriately, with the exception of the large diameter hose mentioned previously.

The schematic shows this hose coming off one of the check valves from the purge solenoid (which is where it was connected) and plugging into a port on the carb.

Only thing is, there's no port free. I do have a different year carb fitted so maybe that's why. For now, I've plugged the line and left it alone. Car seems happy now.
 
Sorry you are going through that situation . I have had issues with shops making mistakes, that I had to learn to fix. The members here have helped me work through it. Sounds like you are good at figuring out your situation.
 
Sorry you are going through that situation . I have had issues with shops making mistakes, that I had to learn to fix. The members here have helped me work through it. Sounds like you are good at figuring out your situation.
I suspect that this one hose has been disconnected since the new carb went on last winter. I didn't get in and examine the setup before now, and it's only because the routing had been messed with that I noticed.
 
Wood Font Tree Schematic Parallel


It's this guy that's hanging loose. Looks like it should connect to Port K on the carb, but mine is blanked off.

Everything else looks to be in place correctly so I'm at a loss as to what to do haha.
 
A week ago I took my Caballero to the Ft Lauderdale airport (55 miles). I went to Oxnard, Ca. That was the longest trip since I bought it just because I have a trust issue and I think something mechanical is going to break. It sat for 8 days but started up with no hesitation. I drove it back home with no issues. I have to get over my insecurities with this truck because it performs the way it should, except for the poor air flow from the AC. Can anyone offer me some words of encouragement?
 
A week ago I took my Caballero to the Ft Lauderdale airport (55 miles). I went to Oxnard, Ca. That was the longest trip since I bought it just because I have a trust issue and I think something mechanical is going to break. It sat for 8 days but started up with no hesitation. I drove it back home with no issues. I have to get over my insecurities with this truck because it performs the way it should, except for the poor air flow from the AC. Can anyone offer me some words of encouragement?
I had the same mental issue with my ‘68. But after several years I have to admit that it’s dead reliable. Wifey insists on keeping our AAA membership with 100 mile towing. I never expect to use it, but the thought of driving my El Camino 99 miles from home doesn’t concern me any longer.
 
After 2 summers working on it I drove my 79 original 305 1050 miles from NJ to Florida. Never missed a beat. Ran the air all second day. Got 20-21 mpg running 70-75 mph. That cured me of any doubts. It did use a quart of oil. I have did valve seals since and cured that problem.
Tom
NJ to Florida? I did the same trip but not in the Caballero. Atlantic City to West Palm Beach in a Wrangler. I'm feeling better about it's reliability and I will continue to use it. Thanks for all of your input and encouragement.
 
View attachment 149270

It's this guy that's hanging loose. Looks like it should connect to Port K on the carb, but mine is blanked off.

Everything else looks to be in place correctly so I'm at a loss as to what to do haha.
Chase the line from the cannister. It should hit a purge valve. K is the main inlet from the cannister, the valves just allow it to function at startup/idle. Once the engine warms up, those valves shut the smog down, so that whole line becomes useless. Its only purpose is to empty whatever fumes are in the cannister, so plugging it up renders the cannister pointless as anything other than a pressure relief when the engine isn't running. Not being able to be cleaned out, the cannister will eventually get saturated and stink like gas, even to the point of dripping gas.
 
Chase the line from the cannister. It should hit a purge valve. K is the main inlet from the cannister, the valves just allow it to function at startup/idle. Once the engine warms up, those valves shut the smog down, so that whole line becomes useless. Its only purpose is to empty whatever fumes are in the cannister, so plugging it up renders the cannister pointless as anything other than a pressure relief when the engine isn't running. Not being able to be cleaned out, the cannister will eventually get saturated and stink like gas, even to the point of dripping gas.
Yeah I removed the bolt I'd plugged it with before a long trip this weekend. Car was running just fine.

I'm going to T it in to the PCV line. Do you foresee any problems with that?
 
The pcv line always functions, depending on the vacuum, at idle you get max vacuum, at wot there's almost none. So having the cannister hooked to that would be ok, IF there purge valves from T/H are functional and shutting down the cannister output after engine warm up.

It's kinda trixy.
 
The pcv line always functions, depending on the vacuum, at idle you get max vacuum, at wot there's almost none. So having the cannister hooked to that would be ok, IF there purge valves from T/H are functional and shutting down the cannister output after engine warm up.

It's kinda trixy.
I think I'll go ahead and replace all those valves anyway, if they're still available. I'm sorely tempted to yank all that stuff out, along with the smog pump, but a bigger part of me wants to keep the car as original as possible.
 
I think I'll go ahead and replace all those valves anyway, if they're still available. I'm sorely tempted to yank all that stuff out, along with the smog pump, but a bigger part of me wants to keep the car as original as possible.
Hah, welcome to my world lol. I believe all my smog stuff is still functional and since the car is 98% original, I'm trying to keep it that way. 🚗👍😁
 
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