[RTT]

Hello All,
Now that I am running my new 355 rebuilt motor with an Edlebrock flat tappet cam, what oil should I run after break in. I searched the forum and found a couple threads that were a little help. To get the Zinc needed, should I use a high quality motorcycle oil? What oils are anyone running in a motor like mine?
RTT

 

[Mr.NastyTimes_86_eLky]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPO-31530/

thats what you need...
Royal Purple 31530 - Royal Purple HPS Street Motor Oil

 

[Guest]

I'm using Valvoline VR1-20-50

 

[CANTED]

There is a guy on "Team Chevelle" that is quite a authority on this subject. Here is a link to a lengthy "sticky" on the subject. I have a fairly agressive solid lifter flat tappet cam in my engine so I have been concerned with this as well. I have used the diesel spec oil back in the day when they had the additives. Have used VR1. Currently using a Rislone additive supplement with Kendall oil. I am planning giving the Summit street/strip a try next. There is info on it near the end of the sticky.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128203

 

[BOOSTED-SS-ELKY]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPO-31530/

thats what you need...
Royal Purple 31530 - Royal Purple HPS Street Motor Oil

Royal Purple is great oil.

I would run a synthetic oil and add one bottle of Comp Cams break in additive at every oil change. This is about the best protection you're gonna get between the synthetic and the additive. A lot of modern day oils do not have the zinc they once had. By adding the break-in oil you're putting a lot of that zinc back in the oil.

I was never a believer in synthetic oil until a freind of mine ran his motor on an engine dyno with conventional oil and made a few pulls. He drained the oil and filled it with Castrol Syntec. Oil temps dropped 30 degrees. What's that tell ya...

I only run synthetic now.

 

[RTT]

I called Rotella today. All Rotella (multi weight oils) both dino and synthetic have zinc additive at 1200 ppm which according to all the research I have done is more that adequate. Rotella oils are reasonably priced as well. RTT:smileyb:

 

[Matty man]

I use Amsoil,,
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/zrt.aspx

or,,

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/zrf.aspx

I wiped a cam in my 80 last year,, 3000 miles,, hopefully I can get a new cam installed this summer, my motor is out,, Matty man
History of the motor; it is a 355 with a Melling MTC-1 cam, same as the Edelbrock performer cam, put it together about 8 years ago, put it in last year, around 3000 miles notice a valve tick,, and I bought a Edelbrock Air Gap performer intake, so I pulled a few lifters and they were not convex but concave (is that correct??) anyway I pulled the motor and I was really surprised on the amount of FOD and junk in the oil pan,, so I had the block power honed (there was rust pits in a cylinder,, it pays to fog your motor before winter storage) So I have a complete kit and I hope I can do something with it the 4th of July week,, I dont recall what oil I used to break in the motor,, whatever it was it was not a good choice, so Amsoil has now break in oil and the high zinc oil,, Matty man

 

[CANTED]

I called Rotella today. All Rotella (multi weight oils) both dino and synthetic have zinc additive at 1200 ppm which according to all the research I have done is more that adequate. Rotella oils are reasonably priced as well. RTT:smileyb:

The 1200 ppm is down from around 1500 that used to be in the diesel spec oil. You also get a very high detergent level with the diesel spec oils, that is not all that good for a gas engine. The VR1 comes in at 1400 ppm and the Spectro/Summit oil has 1800. Camshafts are not all equal and although 1200 would be adequate protection for some, when you get into higher spring rates and agressive ramp profiles, the 1200 may be a little short.

 

[steelybill]

X2 on what Canted said......

 

[RTT]

I found Valvoline VR1 at Napa for $6 a quart. So I went with that brand. All this talk has me worried about my new flat tappet motor!
RTT:neutral:

 

[Jack_K]

I just add a bottle of ZDDP for breakin and at each oil change. Doesn't matter if it's synthetic or dino, works on both. You can get it on ebay.

 

[Marv D]

Just saying,,, ANY oil with the API starburst and rating HAS TO FOLLOW THE REDUCED ZDDP regulation.
If you want to get back to oil that will support high spring pressures and a flat tappet cam,, it's a offroad oil only. Nothing sold in PepBoys or Autozone or any corner auto store is going to have the levels your looking for.

The 'real' Royal Purple is a bit more pricy... but will support the high friction / pressure of a flat tappet cam.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPO-01041/

Just my 2¢ but a hydraulic roller is a lot cheaper than years of expensive oil. And if you want to try,, try a 10 quart oil pan!!! OUCH!!

 

[steelybill]

Yeah, the hyd roller is the way to go alright, it's like spend the money now, or later, if a cam gets ate up....

 

[RTT]

It is time for my first oil change on my 84 Elky 355 motor. I went with Lucas Oil Classic and Hot Rod oil 10w30. It is non synthetic but has the highest levels of ZDDP I could find at 2100 ppm. It is only $5 a quart from Summit.
RTT

 

[Ricks68]

Synthetic for me,has been great.But make sure your sealed up cause it will find any tiny opening and leak out .been in the top end once a loved the way it looked and temps lower than when I got it with reg oil!:nanawrench:

 

[woody31]

I use Amsoil,,
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/zrt.aspx

or,,

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/zrf.aspx

I wiped a cam in my 80 last year,, 3000 miles,, hopefully I can get a new cam installed this summer, my motor is out,, Matty man
History of the motor; it is a 355 with a Melling MTC-1 cam, same as the Edelbrock performer cam, put it together about 8 years ago, put it in last year, around 3000 miles notice a valve tick,, and I bought a Edelbrock Air Gap performer intake, so I pulled a few lifters and they were not convex but concave (is that correct??) anyway I pulled the motor and I was really surprised on the amount of FOD and junk in the oil pan,, so I had the block power honed (there was rust pits in a cylinder,, it pays to fog your motor before winter storage) So I have a complete kit and I hope I can do something with it the 4th of July week,, I dont recall what oil I used to break in the motor,, whatever it was it was not a good choice, so Amsoil has now break in oil and the high zinc oil,, Matty man

if you put it together 8 yrs ago meaning it sat for 8 yrs its no wonder your cam was wiped out ,,, it wasnt the oils fault.....your assembly lube simply fell off and went wherever it wanted to, there is a good thread on assembly lubes and such,,,,
i run 15-40 delo diesel oil in lumpy year round,,,evry once in a while a shot of lucas oil stabilizer,,,,i have had this combo for over 7 yrs and before i bought this motor it was in a imca modified and got the crap beat out of it every saturday night,,,,:secret:

 

[Beepster]

I just add a bottle of ZDDP for breakin and at each oil change. Doesn't matter if it's synthetic or dino, works on both. You can get it on ebay.

Jack, that's what I use, and where I get it. I buy by the 6-pack to get a cheaper price, and it still ain't cheap!!!:beer:

 

[TRIK-56]

Jack, that's what I use, and where I get it. I buy by the 6-pack to get a cheaper price, and it still ain't cheap!!!:beer:

Yep, I do the same thing!

 

[jkk]

Mobil 1 is all I run in eveything including the ol riding mower!