Keeping your riders cool , Keep on Trucking ...

 

Yeah...I am wondering about doing mine. The air works, but isn't getting super cold. It probably needs a charge, but it appears to still have R12. I keep seeing R12a which supposedly you can just pump in without doing a conversion (I get mixed info about whether you have to remove the R12 first). That all being said, the stuff is illegal in the US for automotive use due to flammability, so I will probably have to do an R134 conversion. I continue to waffle about doing it myself. I did it once years ago in an old 83 F150 I had. AC worked perfectly from that point on for a quite a few years...but I have heard more about the process since then and now I have some worries.

Anyway....doesn't have to be done immediately

 

It's not hard but with all new parts it will run you around $800.00 but well worth it. Using old parts just asking for a fix and another recharge.$$$$

 

Had an 83 Vette that ran R-12. Just before R-12 was going to be phased out, I went out an bought a 10# cannister just in case my Vette's AC needed serviced. I have since sold the Vette but still have the R-12. Go Figure :bigups:

 

I will swing by later today!:secret:

 

If you know a refrigeration guy you can have him add a ref. called Hot Shot or 414B the 134 conversion is good but your system is non designed for it. It will take a lot longer to cool off the car and will not blow as cold as it once did. I have been a HVAC tech for 35 years and if there is anyway i can save your system without converting it to 134 I will. That's just my 2 cents worth,:nanawrench:

 

I have been a HVAC tech for 35 years and if there is anyway i can save your system without converting it to 134 I will. That's just my 2 cents worth,:nanawrench:

What about a complete change over thru someone like Old Air. My compressor just froze/seized up on me and since I need to replace it I was thinking of changing the lines/drier/compressor/orfice tube and going with R134. Would you say that even with these changes it still will not perform up to the level of R12 in our cars?

Thanks,

spoony

 

A new parallel flow condenser instead of the series condenser and a red *ord orifice tube is almost a must if you really want the 134 to give you decent cooling. 42 - 45 degree duct temps is not impossible with the 134.

 

I routinely get 40-42 degrees at the vents, but have a parallel flow condenser and use a Sanden compressor ( mostly because the R4's just don't seem to handle the higher pressures of R134a). If your compressor failed, it is almost a must that you replace the condenser, and try and flush out the evaporator and lines as much as possible. Leave any debris in the system, and your new compressor will not last long.

R134a is very finicky- too much or too little, by even an ounce or two, can make a big difference in performance.

 

X2 I followed Mikes advise and my system blows nice and cold with all new parts under the hood. I think anybody could do it as long as you plan ahead and have everything you need then just start at the radiator side and follow the dots then recharge with a set of Harbor Frt A/C gauge kit.

There's a tread of my A/C conversion somewhere under the a/c forum a couple of years ago. It should have everything you need including compressor fluid and part numbers I believe.




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If you go R134, you will also need the small conversion kit that has the two adapters for the gauges. Also, use the Green O-rings, and since your entire system will be new, use PAG oil ( 134 viscosity is recommended, so I used 150). I got the oil with the dye in it, in case I had a leak. 43 oz is the recommended charge, but you might need a little more ( never get all out of a can)


Forgot to mention, for your condenser, try and get one that is Parallel Flow. Easiest way to visually see it is how the pipes enter the condenser. On a standard condenser, the pipe enters, and then loops back and forth, exiting at the bottom. On a parallel flow, there is a manifold pipe down the side with a bunch of small pipes running off into the condenser. This style is much more efficient.

At Rockauto.com, the parallel flow part number is VISTA-PRO Part # 2034, while the stock style is SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # 73232. Look it up, and click info on each of these parts, and you will see the difference.

 

From what I've been reading R134 is 30% LESS efficient than R12. Could(probably) explain why I am not getting as cold as I use to remember since first R134 charge my system seen.