WD-40 isn't a penetration oil, it's a lubricant.

I've used both PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench, both work just as effectively.

The ATF/acetone mix is what guys use to unstick rusted cylinders. May take a couple weeks or even longer, plus heat cycling, but it usually produces favorable results. As for the mix on stuck bolts, never really had to try it. Usually an off-the-shelf penetrating fluid and sometimes some heat, plus an impact driver/hammer (ALWAYS) will do the trick.

I've undone just about every rusty and stuck bolt on my 40-year old motorcycle and have only had to slot or dremel 3.

 

WD-40 isn't a penetration oil, it's a lubricant.

I've used both PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench, both work just as effectively.

The ATF/acetone mix is what guys use to unstick rusted cylinders. May take a couple weeks or even longer, plus heat cycling, but it usually produces favorable results. As for the mix on stuck bolts, never really had to try it. Usually an off-the-shelf penetrating fluid and sometimes some heat, plus an impact driver/hammer (ALWAYS) will do the trick.

I've undone just about every rusty and stuck bolt on my 40-year old motorcycle and have only had to slot or dremel 3.

Acutally, WD40 isn't a lubricant, it's water displacement (Hince the WD). I've used Kroil Oil, and it's very good, better than PB Blaster of Liquid Wrench, but I also use both of those for different projects.

 

I've heard about the mix, but never tried it myself I have a friend of mine that swears by it, I stick to my cans of pub blaster, it works good enough for me.

 

Ah my bad on that. I've never heard of, or seen in stores, Kroil Oil. I'll keep an eye out for it, since I'm frequently trying to turn rusty bolts.

 

Call it whatever you want, but WD-40 is a great product that can be found in most locksmith's tool tray. Countless service calls for jammed, stuck or frozen locks and panic exit devices over my 40 year career were quickly solved with a squirt of WD-40 in the right spot. It helps free up, clean and lubricate any mechanism. I believe it is kerosene based. I have found nothing to replace it.

 

This stuff is a great penetrant too:

:beer:

 

This stuff is a great penetrant too:

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/014045/014045324779lg.jpg

:beer:

Sometimes you just can't beat the Blue wrench!! :twisted:

 

I like to put a little heat on a bolt / nut if possible and as it cools keep spraying it with PB Blaster and it will suck it in to the thread seems to help break it loose.

 

bump

Bump

 

That Kroil brand isn't sold in stores, that I know of. It's sold direct. An aviation friend uses it all the time, & orders it direct.

 

DOT3 brake fluid does wonders....used it on the body mounts of my 67 and all but 1 came out clean....the 1 was rusted in half so no chance of salvation....:beer:

 

It's also a great paint remover. A word to the wise is sufficient.

 

I have used Zepreserve for years, rust just melts off.

PFlo :beer:

 

I like Kroil because it works well and you can control the spray, which comes in handy when you don't need a blast of oil through the tube. My last use was on the top and bottom nuts/bolts holding the original rear shocks.
There's a 2 for offer at the bottom of this page for anyone interested:
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

 

WD-40 now has a new line of products out http://www.wd40specialist.com/:nanawrench:

 

A vote for Kroil oil, Just Google the name, not cheap but you know what they say ...

 

Started using Kroil two years ago after a post on a gun site telling of a two for one special.for large spray cans. It was recommended for cleaning and lubricating the barrels. Haven't used WD-40 since except for getting tar off the car body. Get on the mailing list for a complete line of products and special sales. www.kanolabs.com

 

Been using kroil for years, havent found anything that works as well

 

I use liquid wrench but I soak the bolts twice a day till I'm ready and I haven't had a problem with any bolt yet with a breaker bar. Most bolts I have needed off are original and never taken off before. Did a motor and trans swap Maybe I'm just lucky. Suspension is next.:dontknow::dontknow:

 

I work in a power plant and kroil is amazing the rule is let it soak right now i am frame off restoring a 1972 michigan car and havent had any probs geting nuts and bolts free just shoot them with kroil and take them out the next day an other trick is to warm the bolt with a propane torch and dab bees wax on it it sucks in like solder and frees it up

 

Anyone one else order any Kroil from the above link, Kanolabs/google offer? I ordered almost three weeks ago and have yet to receive my order. My credit card was charged but I have not seen any invoice or shipping/tracking for order.

Thanks
PFlo/Paul:beer:

 

It takes a while, but they are good for shipping the product. I called them and they said they didn't have a record of the order (arghh), but it was at the door when I got home. It took about 3-4 weeks.

 

Seems to be double posting ... sorry

 

"Gibbs" for Penitrating, and "Strong Arm" for Rusty...Best I have ever tried...

 

Heating the nut/bolt and letting candle wax penetrate is an old timers trick I learned from my dad