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Discussion starter · #43 ·
So its been a long time since my last update but I've been saving for exhaust...And I finally got it done today!!: Dual xhaust, header back with xpipe. Cross member mod...2 stainless super 40's delta flow's

Before:
Elco on the lift
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Front end
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Back facing foward
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Rear end, I have a rear sway bar but havnt had a chance to put it on.
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And now after: (they put the car down before i could take more pics, so I didnt get that many)

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one tip done
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x pipe
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10 color elco that needs an alighnment bad lol
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What it used to look like before i f'd it up trying to learn to do bodywork
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Discussion starter · #44 ·
So I got the exhuast done and go to start it up and ....nothing all of a sudden I'm not getting any fuel. I was trying to find a problem for a while but they had another customer and I had to get off the lift. So I ended up having to have it towed home so it was pretty dissapointed all the money i have in it so far and still cant drive it
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Car starts right up when I put gas in the fuel bowls I could hear and see the carb spit gas out of the jets but I changed the fuel filter yesterday to a clear one to make sure fuel was being pumped up but still no gas. The fuel pump was brand new holley one and worked during the break in, I havnt started the car since then so maybe it sucked something up. I need to check the line to make sure ther is no blockage but I havnt had time other wise I need to go see if i can exchange it because that dam thing was expensive... Any other ideas?

Does anyone know if theres another fuel filter before the fuel pump from factory? I have a small garage so its a mission to get under there and look now lol
 
So I got the exhuast done and go to start it up and ....nothing all of a sudden I'm not getting any fuel. I was trying to find a problem for a while but they had another customer and I had to get off the lift. So I ended up having to have it towed home so it was pretty dissapointed all the money i have in it so far and still cant drive it
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.

Car starts right up when I put gas in the fuel bowls I could hear and see the carb spit gas out of the jets but I changed the fuel filter yesterday to a clear one to make sure fuel was being pumped up but still no gas. The fuel pump was brand new holley one and worked during the break in, I havnt started the car since then so maybe it sucked something up. I need to check the line to make sure ther is no blockage but I havnt had time other wise I need to go see if i can exchange it because that dam thing was expensive... Any other ideas?

Does anyone know if theres another fuel filter before the fuel pump from factory? I have a small garage so its a mission to get under there and look now lol
Did you get it running? my filter is in the carb. 87
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·

Got her starting up good now!New battery helped but was still actin funny, I reused my old pcv valve from the 305 and it was in rough shape but still rattled when I shook it so I thought it was good. Turns out, it wasn't as soon as I replaced it, it now starts right up. 8) Still needs a good tune but starting it up was more of a concern. Timing is 36 all in at about 2600 and base is 14. From idle in park to idle in drive its going from 1000rpms to a little over 500rpms and begins running a little rough and stumbling. Is that big of a drop normal or how would I go about adjusting it on a 600cfm Holley? I would like it a little higher when in drive...

I Made good progress but while driving the trans felt like it did not want to shift under light load and I had no kind of acceleration the engine revved up but i had to over rev to get it to move. This was a fresh rebuild but it sat for about a year. tranny fluid was full and TV cable was hooked up. Im using the stock bracket with the geometry corrector, im thinking that might something to do with it but I know its set right at max throttle the tv cable is all the way out as well. Would the Holley bracket help? What else could be causing this?
 
You should be able to adjust your idle down lower with that size carb. 750 is a good range to idle in. What stall speed is your converter? I'm going out on a limb and saying it might be a little low for your setup. You should be running around a 2800 stall. Your engine's torque curve doesn't allow low end torque and your converter will actually stall at a lower RPM than what it is actually rated at. A higher torque output will actually make the converter stall at a higher RPM than it's rating. If you can idle your engine down in park, there should not be enough of a drop to make your engine"stall".
 

Got her starting up good now!New battery helped but was still actin funny, I reused my old pcv valve from the 305 and it was in rough shape but still rattled when I shook it so I thought it was good. Turns out, it wasn't as soon as I replaced it, it now starts right up. 8) Still needs a good tune but starting it up was more of a concern. Timing is 36 all in at about 2600 and base is 14. From idle in park to idle in drive its going from 1000rpms to a little over 500rpms and begins running a little rough and stumbling. Is that big of a drop normal or how would I go about adjusting it on a 600cfm Holley? I would like it a little higher when in drive...

I Made good progress but while driving the trans felt like it did not want to shift under light load and I had no kind of acceleration the engine revved up but i had to over rev to get it to move. This was a fresh rebuild but it sat for about a year. tranny fluid was full and TV cable was hooked up. Im using the stock bracket with the geometry corrector, im thinking that might something to do with it but I know its set right at max throttle the tv cable is all the way out as well. Would the Holley bracket help? What else could be causing this?
Look'n good ready for a cruz yet? the body work looks great:poke:
Robert.
 
Having the timing all in by 2600 is a little quick, Rich. If you don't get it sorted out, give me a call and bring it by and I'll give you a hand getting rid of the stumble.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Having the timing all in by 2600 is a little quick, Rich. If you don't get it sorted out, give me a call and bring it by and I'll give you a hand getting rid of the stumble.
It use to be at 3000 but i was having starting issues so i brought it down some. I think the pcv valve was the issue so i will try and bring it back up then see if i canget some more vacuum out of it and see if i can get the idle lower without it dying on me in drive...i think the converter might be the issue there.. i will give you a call if i can't figure it out im on vacation until Tuesday so i can come down anytime..i just have to get an alignment and put on my side mirrors before i get a ticket :beer:
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
been busy with school lately but now I'm finally on vacation so time to get some work done

Picked up a gently used GN d5 converter to help get the motor a little up more into its powerband with a higher stall
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MCSS quick ratio steering box, which is 2.5 turns lock to lock vs 3.? stock
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And it must have been my lucky day today, because I was able to find the intake set up I always wanted!!! on top of that it was half off day at the junk yard so I got it for cheap! I'm going to make a couple mods to it then send it out for chrome.. I also need to find the ducts or make my own if their too expensive..Any ideas?
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Also pictured above are my new dual electric fan set up and radiator hold down plate..Now I just got to get everything all in :nanawrench:
 
Feels good when you score and one step closer to completion.
Robert
 
Sweet it's going to look good ON YOUR TRUCK with these on there soon. For other members this is how we barter here in L.A. a little help putting in my motor and trade for these rims and a running 305 motor.



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Time to see some more pic's.:twisted:
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
Finally got around to putting my new rims on the elco Courtesy of HKDUP87, really like how they look in front of the blazer brakes and now i don't have to worry about filling up my tires every couple of days.

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Still need to install the transgo reprogramming kit and GN D5 converter and fix a couple leaks...get better shocks....and i'm also looking for a set of aluminum drums so I can finish up my rear brake upgrade using the larger s10 wheel cylinders and shoes with more contact area.

And lastly will be paint
 
Starting to show some class:poke: Must feel nice out of the garage!!!!
Robert
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
transgo kit and d5 convertor have been installed just been cleaning up some stuff and switching to dual e-fans..
Cleaned up rad, support lots of time and wire wheeling
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finally mounted intrepid fans:
grinded a little bit of the sides and slides right into the stock rad nice and snug
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I cut off the original mounting tabs got some 5/8ths hyco bar from home depot plumbing section and made brackets. I bent it up with pliers and routed it thru the back and used the original holes that were drill in the radiator and bolted it on. Came out pretty sturdy. whole thing came out to about $3 max for hardware and one strip, ended up using only about half of one its 14 gauge galvanized steel btw.


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All bolted up, just need to hit it up with some amorall and it'll look good as new
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core support and radiator back in
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They are two speed fans so I have the first speed wired up to fused relay that is triggered by a ground from a switch mounted in the dash.

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The second speed serves as a safeguard in case I or someone I let drive, ever forget to turn on the fans manually or just in case the motor is running hot and needs it. It is wired up to a fused relay but it is triggered by a temp fan switch that comes on at 220 and off around 200.

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I used a fuse/relay box I got at the junkyard, you can kind of see it next to the condenser on the top left. Once I finish mounting it, I can get some better pics. I made the brackets I just need some nuts and bolts.

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Also finally got my plug wires I ordered, so I can get rid of that spaghetti of wires all over the place. They are 40ohms/foot, not the best but a lot better than the cheap autozone ones I have on there.

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I want to route these under the headers, so they are barely visible but needs some ideas on how to do this... Just need some ideas on how exactly to route them so they dont get all burned up by the headers because it is tight.
 
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